Long overdue: the fabled ‘black wine’ of the Nile valley. Tonic wine, synonymous for centuries with Coptic celebrations and Saidi tradition, but also with riotous excess from the time of the Pharaohs right down to the present day, is truly Egyptian, yet familiar to us northerners in the form of the much-loved Buckfast. Mentuhotep IV said ‘iirp’; your average Botros ‘Abdel-Massih says ‘nabiz’ – I say ‘let’s get stoated’. I also say ‘I hate the SNP for their restrictions on civil liberties’.

It’s a nice bottle. Arabic in a traditional cursive style on the front, and equal French to make it seem, rather jocularly I think, more ‘civilised’ than it actually is. There’s a drawing of a cherub supine on a wine cask holding up a glass of the good stuff (King Robert from Game of Thrones anyone?). Gianaclis. The French name for this one is another classic, if this is really what Saidis do for altar wine I might start attending Mass in the Coptic Catholic rite. 36 EGP – not bad considering a bottle of Bucky costs about double that these days… and 16% ABV, here we go!
It pours thick, viscous, a deep reddy-black colour. The smell is very full, cinnamony, sickly sweet, cola-y, fruity, strongly alcoholic. Pretty much like Buckfast.

Long story short, it tastes like Buckfast. Extremely sweet. Full-bodied. Cinnamony, spicy. Distinctly reminiscent of cola, but violently alcoholic. As long as you understand that this is a very different (and ancient) style of wine and that it’s only even superficially slightly similar to modern-day pinot noirs or chiantis or whatever, I think this is a good wine. The taste, I think, causes a psychological element in getting you extremely drunk with astounding speed when supping this noble beverage. I limit myself to a couple of small glasses if I’m at home because any more than even that small amount and I start feeling rather frightfully mad wae it. It’s quite nice with blue cheese or gouda, not so much with dinner itself. Best, though, with a few of your pals and a few smokes. A bottle each and you’ll be living the… eh… high life (ahem) in no time.
It’s nice to know that the Buckfast of our hearts has such a venerable progenitor. This original and equally uncomplicated style of sweet strong wine certainly gets you fucked fast (ho-ho-ho) just the same. For all the mewling protestations of the SNP/fools in double-breasted blazers/Guardian and Independent columnists and so on, tonic wine, or whatever you want to call it, is a deeply traditional drink which has been made in a similar way for thousands of years. It has delighted and intoxicated peasants and the urban poor in centuries past, as well as Pharaohs, Caliphs, Popes, Sultans and Kings just as much, and now it does the same for us. God bless black wine! May Alex Salmond rot in the ninth circle of Hell. 9/10.